
Are
you ready for another episode of our Ancient Sardinia Tour? Well, from
Dorgali, in the north-east of the island, we drove down along the coast,
then went again westwards passing through an incredible scenery and
finally coming down towards Cagliari, Sardinia's main city.
The weather has changed and after two weeks of bright sunshine we are
now struggling with strong wind and grey
clouds. Well, it is autumn after all, isn't it?
Sardinian roads are great (much better than the Corsican ones we experienced
last year), but you can meet similar obstacles
here. Usually we don't meet anyone at the ancient sites, but sometimes
there is an impredictable exception...
Back
to our beloved prehistoric monuments. In the last few days we visited
several giants' tombs: Osono, the well
preserved Sa Domu 'e S'Orku and
the twin Seleni I and Seleni
II. As you can see in the photo, in front of the latter are two
stones with three holes each: they were used to house small baethyles,
often clear symbols of virility like the one
we saw in the Dorgali archaeo museum (X rated image!). Anyway, other
baethyles are not so ermbarassing, but sometimes extremely peculiar
like the one in S. Pietro in
Golgo, with a face carved on it.
In
these days we also visited some of the biggest and most interesting
nuraghi of Sardinia: the Unesco World heritage site Su
Nuraxi at Barumini, surrounded by a large settlement, the Arrubiu
one, still very high (his walls reach 14.40 m of the original height
of 27-30 m) and Is Paras. Along our
itinerary we also visited two beautiful sacred sites: Domu
'e Orxia, a huge temple dated to the II millennium BC (its name
means 'the house of Orxia', a witch who was very revengeful for the
killing of her children) and Santa
Vittoria di Serri, a complex Nuragic sanctuary formed by several
buildings (a great meeting point formed by various huts and rooms, a
holy well, a rectangular temple, a kind of Court of Justice...).
But
the 'new entry' of our Ancient Sardinia Tour are the standing stones.
In these days we have visited some astonishing sites. From the two
standing stones in front of the S'Ortali
'e Su Monte giants' tomb to the pillars of Perdalonga
(three stones from 2.6 to 3.3 m in height perfectly aligned north-south
and a fourth 4 m tall one
some metres away). From the ones
aligned near the stone circle of Is
Cirquittus to the enigmatric row of Corte
Noa. But speaking of alignments, the most striking one is the one
at Pranu Muteddu, north
of Cagliari, where 18 standing stones were erected on a line in a sacred
area near other pairs and single standing stones, domus de janas and
tombs.
All
these standing stones were carefully worked in order to look roughly
antropomorphic, but we could also appreciate a fascinating Sardinian
evolution of them: the so called "menhir-statues", ogival
monoliths with carved noses and eyebrows, decorated later also with
breasts (the female ones) or weapons (the male ones). There is a very
interesting little museum about them in the village of Laconi. There,
you can admire about forty of these monoliths,
found in the area around the village and you can make a multimedia travel
in Prehistory through the museum's computers. A must for every megalithic
fan. Also because the menhir-statues are very beautiful in their simplicity,
basic and incredibly modern at the same time.
Particularly mysterious for us is the so called 'capovolto' (upside
down man), a kind of trident-shaped figure cut on many of these monoliths.
But if you want to know more about these extraordinary monuments, have
a look at the interview we made to Giorgio
Murru, the archaeologist responsible for the museum of Laconi.